A prototype, fit sample, and pre-production sample serve different purposes during lingerie development. One helps evaluate the construction, another the fit, and the third confirms how the style should be produced before bulk production. If these checks are skipped, unresolved issues may carry over into the finished production run.
Prototype: Testing the Idea
A prototype (proto sample) is the first physical version of a style. It is created to evaluate the silhouette, construction, seam placement, and fabric behavior.
Materials with properties similar to the final ones may be used, but they do not necessarily have to be identical. This sample helps identify which changes the style requires. However, final conclusions about fit should be made using the materials selected for production.
Fit Sample: Checking the Fit
During a fitting, the team evaluates elastic tension, bust support, seam placement, and overall comfort. They check whether the edges dig into the body, whether there is any distortion, and whether the garment shifts during movement.
After the fitting, the patterns and sewing parameters are adjusted. A sample in one size allows the fit of that specific size to be evaluated. Additional samples after grading are required to check the fit across the size range.
Pre-Production Sample: Checking the Final Execution Before Bulk Production
A pre-production sample (PP sample) is made using the fabrics, elastics, hardware, and threads approved for the production run, along with the specified labels. It is checked against the tech pack — the complete set of technical documentation for the style — as well as the specifications and finishing requirements.
Once approved in writing, the PP sample serves as a reference for comparing bulk production garments alongside the approved documentation. The brand and manufacturer should agree in advance on the approval process for cutting and starting bulk production.
Common Mistakes Brands Make
Confusing development stages. Approving a prototype as the final sample before the fit and materials have been properly tested.
Relying on a single fitting. Failing to test the style on bodies representative of the target audience and in the smallest and largest sizes of the planned range.
Changing materials after PP sample approval. A different elastic or lace can affect the fit. Any substitution should be approved, along with a decision on which tests need to be repeated.
Approving a sample only verbally. Without written confirmation of the sample version, documentation, and implemented changes, it becomes more difficult to establish exactly what was approved.
Leaving details until later. Colors, composition and care labeling, labels, and packaging should be included in the approval process before bulk production begins.
If you are preparing a style for production, we can discuss which samples and approvals are required for its development.